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Sooner or later, your engine will wear out and will require Custom Piston Rings Manufacturers or the piston in general.
It seems like changing piston rings is an ordinary task available to everyone who is in the slightest degree familiar with the device and the principle of operation of a primitive four-stroke engine. But, unfortunately, people are afraid to spend 15 minutes of their incredibly precious time reading literature and stuff everything into the motor according to the principle. Well, the flag is in your hands and a prompt call to the service.
Well, for those who care about how their motor will work after a bulkhead, you should read this article.
So, we take the piston and see 3 grooves for the installation of piston rings. There are no limit stops on 4-stroke engines, as on 2-stroke engines, for example.
There are two types of piston rings on 4-stroke engines. The first two, which are installed in the two upper grooves, are compression ones. Even from the name it is clear that they are responsible for the presence of compression in your engine. And it must contain the gases formed at the time of the outbreak due to the combustion of fuel in the combustion chamber.
The next three rings are oil scraper rings. Here, too, their purpose is immediately clear. They are responsible for removing the oil that coats the cylinder wall when the piston returns down. If these rings pass through, the oil will remain on the cylinder walls. And this is fraught with the fact that the engine will begin to eat up the oil, and, naturally, smoke will appear.
You must contact reliable Custom Piston Rings Manufacturers in this situation.
Yes, in principle, as we did from the factory, in the same order, but in order to avoid mistakes, we show it again.
Initially, we put the main oil scraper ring: the one that has a wave-like structure. It is nowhere easier to install it, since it is the most elastic of all.
Then we put the upper and lower THIN oil scraper rings. They are a little harder, but you shouldn’t have any problems installing them either.
Now we put in the piston compression rings: those that are thicker and “harder”. First, set the bottom, then the top. Putting them on is a little more difficult, as they are less elastic and harder. It is unlikely that you will be able to break them, but with completely crooked hands, it is nowhere easier to bend them.
The fact is that the rings still need to be correctly positioned on the piston so that the ring locks (the place where they were cut) do not fall on each other. Simply put, you want the bottom ring cut not to be positioned directly above the top ring cut.
Let’s start with the upper piston rings.
Custom Piston Rings Manufacturers place the lock of the lower ring in the middle above the cavity of the valve, for example, inlet (you can also exhaust, there is no difference).
We place the lock of the upper ring strictly on the opposite side from the lower ring. Accordingly, if the lock of the lower ring is above the cavity under the inlet valve, then the lock of the upper ring is above the cavity under the outlet valve.
Now let’s move on to the oil scraper rings. These rings must be positioned in the same way so that no lock matches. Therefore, we place the upper ring above the hole for the piston pin, on the right side.
The second one (the one that is lower) is located on the opposite side, also approximately in the middle of the hole for the piston pin.
We put the last wavy oil scraper ring in any of the four resulting sections between the hole for the finger and the cavity for the valve. For this, you can read Custom Piston Rings Manufacturers manual.
And now to your question: what kind of nonsense is the author rubbing at us here? And why so painstakingly set the position of all 5 rings?
If we take into account the piston rings, then this is a loss of compression and the passage of hot working gases to the oil scraper rings. They are not designed for such sudden high operating temperatures. As a result, the rings may burn out after a certain time.
If we turn to the oil scraper rings and the coincidence of the locks on them, then the oil will not be completely removed from us. It will reach the piston rings, which will lead to coking of the ring grooves, and as a result they will fill up and then burn out.
As a result, you will get burnt rings and piston wear.
First of all, you will need a thin flat-type stylus. A new part is inserted inside the cylinder to check clearances and correct position. The part should sink down to the middle. The correct position is tight against the walls. If you notice a gap between the wall and the part itself, then it can be considered defective. According to professional Custom Piston Rings Manufacturers, it is not subject to installation.
Important: the rule does not apply to oil scraper rings. Since they are supported by a cage, small gaps are required when installing them!
To speed up the process, sort the items according to their intended purpose. For convenience, they should be decomposed in the following order:
In that sequence, the elements are put on the piston. In addition to hands, you will not need additional tools. The cage is in the lowest position in the groove, so put it back in place immediately. Before installing the following components, you need to remember important nuances.
Custom Piston Rings Manufacturers oil scraper rings are the thinnest and most flexible of the kit. If you apply a little effort, pushing on the part with your fingers from opposite sides, it will bend. The bending side is provided for a reason, being a special design feature. Do not press too hard to avoid deforming the material.
Remember the bend of both rings. If there are no marks on the convex surface, make notes for yourself with a marker, or check the side of the bend just before installing on the piston.
Setting the ring locks before installation is a matter of 2 minutes, and this operation can extend the life of the motor by tens of hours.